10) BLISTER: In addition to climbing at a really high level, you’re working on an engineering degree, and working in a really interesting field. Tell us about it.
Zach: I’m getting a PhD in biomedical engineering. I design dynamic computer simulations of human movement in order to better understand the mechanical reasons for musculoskeletal disorders such as osteoarthritis. I have so much more to learn.
11) BLISTER: How do you feel about juggling climbing and training with course work and study? I could imagine it would be perpetually frustrating: never enough time to train, travel, compete, etc., and never enough to handle your academic obligations. In a perfect world, would you prefer to be able to focus just on climbing, or just on the degree? Or do you actually appreciate the mix?
Zach: You’re right in that it’s frustrating to do two things at a high level, but I see no other alternative. I want to do both, and I want to do them at the exact same time! Climbing, even at a high level, is such a selfish pursuit that I could never just do it by itself. Life is about balance, and I just feel fortunate to have found two unrelated things that I’m extremely passionate about.
12-14 or so) BLISTER: “Two unrelated things”? Somehow, I don’t really believe that you view climbing and the “simulation of human movement” (which involves gaining a better understanding of human movement’) to be unrelated.
When you’re in the lab, you don’t find yourself thinking about dynamic movements in climbing and trying to gain insight from that to inform what you’re up to in the lab? And when you’re thinking about the mechanics of osteoarthritis, that doesn’t have you thinking about whether repeatedly attempting to hang on ridiculously small crimps is a good thing or a bad thing?
Zach: I certainly apply some the biomechanical principles that I use in my research to a personal analysis of climbing movement, so you’re right—there is some overlap there. I enjoy thinking about the mechanics of climbing, injuries, etc., but it’s not something I do while I’m actually climbing.
Osteoarthritis (OA) is a strange beast. I’m certainly cognizant of the potential long-term effects of climbing at a high level. As far as finger OA, the research seems to be in our favor, just so long as we keep using our hands when we’re elderly. I’m more concerned about my knees, dropping off the end of boulder problems at the gym repeatedly.
15) BLISTER: How often are you climbing, climbing outside, travelling?
Zach: I climb 3-4 days a week in the gym, and ~1 day outside. I’ll take several small trips and 1-2 big “destination” trips a year.
16) BLISTER: What does your road trip / bouldering kit consist of? How many crash pads & what sizes, how many shoes are you bringing?
Zach: I’ve lost count of the number of crashpads and climbing shoes that I have. I’ll bring a large (12 Gauge) Revolution crash pad, and a pair of Madrock Demons and Sharks. I use the Demons for steep stuff, and the Sharks whenever I need to heel-hook.
17) BLISTER: We recently asked the question in a Random Review, “What is the Most Interesting Fact In the World?” I posited that the answer was either (a) that octopi actually exist, or (b) the speed at which the earth is travelling around the sun. What would you go with?
Zach: That a collection of atoms can form together in such a way that gives us consciousness. I can’t think of a more perfect example of the “whole being greater than the sum of its parts.”
18) BLISTER: I know music matters to you, but what I don’t know is how particular you are about Sending Songs. Do you have a few consistent go-to’s? Are you playing music when you’re climbing outside? Best Sending Song Ever?
Zach: Nothing gets me more ready to climb my little heart out than Fucking Problems by A$AP Rocky.
19) BLISTER: Rumor has it you’re currently working on a problem, perhaps a V15. I’d be very interested to have you talk about it, the psychology of it. How natural / organic does it feel to continue to try to level up, when you’re already so close to the ceiling? Does it feel like a natural progression, or does it feel like you just have to, you’re expected to? How different / similar does that position feel—the goal of moving from V14 to V15, versus the progression from V5 to V6.
Zach: Yeah, I’m working a problem called Paint it Black that is supposedly V15. It is my opinion that performance (at least on a high level) has more to do with psychology (mainly confidence) than most people are aware. I’m probably strong enough to climb V15 right now. I’ll actually get up a V15 when I convince myself that I’m able to.
20) BLISTER: Climbing in the Olympics—we just put together a Blister Symposium on the topic, and lots of good questions were raised. What’s your take?
Zach: I’m extremely biased because I want so badly to represent our country at the highest level. Just thinking about it makes me emotional. Looks like Astrology got me wrong.