As an added bonus, the DHR2 deviates from the original in one more very important way. Notice on the original that every line of center knobs has a pair of side knobs just to the outside of it? See how the center knobs and side knobs both come in pairs with one another? Well, someone at Maxxis realizes that alternating these sets allows each to work better. Here’s what I mean:
Yellow represents a row of side knobs, and red is the center knobs. Notice how they’re out of each others’ way? This alternating pattern gives each set the all-important space to do their respective jobs: grab dirt in the way that they were designed to. Awesome.
Like the High Roller 2 review I did last year, I only go into all this pedantic crap because it truly matters to how well a tire works—or doesn’t work. And so, the bottom line here?
The new Minion DHR2 rules so hard, it’s difficult to believe that Maxxis would even reference the original DHR in its name.
I’ve ridden this tread in downpours in the northwest, in the dry powder we in Tahoe graciously call “dirt,” and in everything in between. I’ve been all over smooth rocks, jagged rocks, and gravel of all sizes. The Minion DHR2 is, without a doubt, the best braking “general tread” (i.e., not a mud spike) DH tire Maxxis has ever made.
With a combination of taller and, more importantly, more widely spaced center knobs than either previous Minion, the DHR2 just holds onto material far better under braking and allows you to maintain much more control when getting on the stoppers.
The center knobs pierce deeper and shed dirt much, much easier, allowing the next braking event to happen with a cleaner tire. And I don’t just mean, “for a rear tire.”
I’ve had the DHR2s on both ends of my bike in all these conditions, and the improvement over the original DHR is almost comical. But the improvement in braking and clearing wet dirt over the DHF is also noticeably better. So don’t think that this is just a rear tire. Braking is part of being a front tire, too, and this one is head and shoulders above the DHR in that regard.
When looking at the profile of the DHR2, it becomes apparent that the center knobs form a bit of a round profile along the centerline. This contributes to its braking traction in that this round surface is a symptom of the braking edges being wider, meaning there’s some braking edge when the tire is leaned over a little. This is fantastic for a rear tire since it allows solid braking traction at multiple angles, yet there’s still a defined channel to allow the side knobs to do their job when really leaned over.
But this wider overall braking surface pattern comes at a bit of a cost. Even though alternating, the wide siped braking knobs start to constrict that all-important channel between them and the side knobs a bit. They don’t block it off like some moronic designs with “intermediate knobs” (which is code for “shitty tire design”), but they do constrict it. I wouldn’t say it supports hard cornering any less than a DHF, but I also can’t say that the DHR2 works better than a DHF in this regard. I honestly consider it a bit of a wash, with maybe a nod to the DHF if I was forced to choose sides.
Seeing how these side knobs are just a smidgen more stout than those on my beloved DHFs, I was really curious to see how opening up this channel just a tad more would work out for the cornering aspect. I’ve been completely satisfied with how an uncut version works on the rear, but I wanted to see if I could get just a tad more cornering bite by trimming those wide siped braking knobs. Here’s the result:
It’s basically just a matter of bringing those widest knobs into just about the width of the other two pairs. I blew it on one tire and cut too much off; it was noticeably sketchier braking under any kind of angle. Those wider siped knobs serve a purpose, and I’d neutered them a little too much.
The pic above is kind of the “ideal” trim in my opinion. The result is a tire that brakes much better than a Minion DHF, but also supports hard cornering even better than a DHF. Except for rolling resistance, it’s a better all-around front tread than the most popular front tire in downhilling.
Those slightly-more-stout side knobs still behave in the same predictable, supported drifting as the DHF, they just grip a little more. It’s noticeable. I’ve tried this trim on the rear as well, and it’s pretty much the sum total of all previous discussions: it supports hard turns a little better, but doesn’t quite hold as well or under as many angles under stiff braking, and overall, some of braking traction is compromised. To be honest, I only really think there’s a significant benefit to trimming this tread if it’s going on the front of my bike. Your results may vary.
I’m not usually one to get all hot and bothered about a “trim ready” tire. That pretty much applies to every crappy tire if you’re willing to spend the time getting the hand cramps. But this one does something special. It gives you (1) a tire that has the stout dependability of a Maxxis casing (yes, I’m looking at you, Continental); (2) the proven compounds Maxxis is known for (including a 60 durometer option, something too few companies make available in DH casings); (3) they make your bike roll appreciably faster even when just on the rear; and (4) a tread that corners better than its most popular option with the same well known extremely predictable drift.
Trimming tires sucks, but this one is worth it more than most.
I mentioned rolling resistance earlier because this is one thing that those taller, more separated center knobs compromise. There’s a lot of deformation going on to squash those things on hard terrain, a good bit of lift that the wheel has to undergo to pick the tire up onto those knobs, and there just isn’t the flat surface area of either of the original Minions. If the most efficient speed on hard surfaces is what you’re after, there are probably some better options. But if braking traction and good cornering (untrimmed) or excellent cornering (trimmed) are what you want, then you need to check these things out. I’ve got two sets of Minion DHR2s on two bikes, and this is the first time in the last eight years that I haven’t had a single one of my bikes with the letters “DHF” on the round rubber parts. The most telling part of this is that it will be staying that way.
Well worth the read. This was quite an insight into tire design.
thank you Kevin.
Hi Kevin.
Thanks for your article.
I ride the older DHR 2.5 and I cut vertical sipes (carefully with a dremel) into the center ridge knobs and use it as a front tire here on Vancouver Island (much better than the Kenda Nevegal OEM tire) in the wet loam/mud/bareroots/rocks and platforms. As modified, it has served as a decent rolling and tracking front tire, granted not as good as my son’s Minion DHF, (my next tire).
WBP
An excellent and technically informative review, thanks!
Kevin, how about a Gear 101 article on tires? You seem to know your stuff.
Kevin, do you know how the width of the 2.3 and 2.4 DHR2 compares to a DHF 2.5? The 2.35 and 2.5 Maxxis tend to be undersized, but the newer 2.3 and 2.4s are reportedly measure more true. I’ll be pairing it with a 2.5 DHF and want it to be the same or slightly narrower. Thanks.
To answer my own question, the 2.4 DHR 2 is very slightly wider than the 2.5 DHF. I ran a 42a DHF 2.5 on the front and a 60a DHR 2 2.4 on the back all summer and it was good but can’t say I noticed much difference between a DHR 2 and a DHF on the back, maybe slightly better braking but I had new brakes this year and came off of a very worn rear tyre so it’s hard to tell. I’ll just get whichever is cheaper from now on.
I’ve got a 2.3 DHR 2 ready to go onto the rear next spring. Not mounted yet but it looks very slightly narrower than a DHF 2.5, perfect. Shallower knobs than a 2.4 though, so maybe shorter lifespan.
Thanks Kevin,
Waiting for my 2.3 x 29 DHR II for front and back on my LTc. Peeled the knobs off my Hans Dampf and Nobby Nic…
Thanks for the trimming tip!
Im looking at your finished tire and l have to be honest, l cant see what you did. Over and over i have been trying l just dont see.
JDW: look at the circled knobs on page 3. Cut those in about 2-3mm on each side. It doesn’t affect the braking of the knob itself but it opens up the channel a little bit more so that the sideknobs have more dirt to grab.
Actually there are three pics of circled knobs on that page, I just meant the second/middle pic.
Great! I see now.
Which compound did you use for the rear, the dual compound or the 3c? I am trying to decide which version to use for the rear in the PNW, where wet weather is common. Thx.
The “single” compound, which is essentially their maxxpro/60a durometer. I run that same setup (harder rear/softer front) up in your neck of the woods midsummer. But if it’s pissing for days on end, I definitely throw a sticky tire on the rear, Which in this case would be that 3C maxxgrip version, with the supertacky on the front. Keep in mind, this is a review of the dh casing ones, not what’s come out since the review in lighter casings.
Thanks so much for the effort in putting this together.
I’m a new rider, 12 months approx and I’m starting to get the feeling that I’m pushing beyond the tires limits, its probably my lack of ability but i would like to see if some different tires will help me progress without getting scared off by tires letting go all the time.
I currently run Ardent’s F/R 2.4/2.25 for UK Trail center riding and it almost feels as though “my” max cornering speed sits where the Ardents have that gap in gripi keep reading about so when i give it my best i seem to have little grip and back off. I know i could man up and commit more to get into the rest of the tires ability but im just not there confidence wise.
Would you recommend these tires (for lack of a better description), as the next tire up cornering confidence wise or would High Roller II’s be a better next step from Ardents?
Also, now that new variants are available do you think based on past experience that the single ply 2.30 in 3C EXO front AND rear would be a reasonable replacement for the Ardents or go with bigger front again? I only went larger front last time as people suggested that the 2.25 Ardents were poor as fronts but the 2.4 were considerably better. I’m looking at the 3c versions as i don’t change tires for wet/dry so thought id pick something “in the middle” if that makes any sense.
Bit long i know, Sorry.
But any advice you can offer i would greatly appreciate as i really like the sound of these but dont want to blow £100 and find them as slow as the older dhr/dhf super tackies that came with the bike!
Very comprehensive review. I’m currently in the market for new rubber. I’ve been pointed to the DHF an DHR2, but this might make me run DHR2 F and R. The DHR2 is almost 100g lighter too. What do you think? I value fast rolling and light weight, but my Ardents don’t have a stout enough casing
@KB
if i set up a DHR II on the front, do i have to invert the rotational direction of the tire? I’ve read that in a few places…
Thanks!
Nope. Rotation is same. Got this tyre couple days ago and im happy with DHR2 3c as front tyre!
Matt,
I was just re-reading Kevin’s great article to discuss with a pal who lives 3 mile from the Forest of Dean Trail centre where we ride a lot, I see you didn’t get a reply back in 2015 and guess that 5 years later you’ve worked it out?
At least you’ve been riding 6 years!
You didn’t mention the bike but I guess its not an XC if it came with DHR/F – personally I would think the Ardent is rear only unless it’s a real dry hardback surface only. It’s more like an XC tyre to me. I’m not sure its even capable enough rear – Friends agree.
A lot depends on the riding surface. I ride (mostly Southern) UK too, the UK Trail center riding you mention differs a lot as you know, all the way from natural woodland surfaces to hardback ‘BMX’ tracks.
And a lot of cornering is about weighting the tyres correctly and learning to lean the bike not the body (see Fabien Barel on cornering, youtube).
Of course the right tyres help a lot but don’t replace great technique.
Were your supplied tyres really “super tacky” I thought that compound disappeared years ago so I’d have expected Maxxterra (not so soft)? Maxxterra compound is pretty good on the rear.
Put them back on! DHR2 front DHF rear yeah, I know)
That DHR2 is a great tyre, if I chose to run a pair it’d be 2,5 WT maxxgrip upfront (and like Kevin I might cut it, but see below: the G5 is SO like a cut DHR2 its an easy pick if you don mind the DH casing, wire bead).
I like the DHR2 2.35 maxxterra (27.5) as a rear, I run that a lot on all surfaces and feel it wears well, pedals and rolls well
(better than my alternative Shorty, not as fast as my Mavic Quest or Spesh Slaughter but I don’t ride a lot of hardback, so really miss climbing traction and braking grip with those – so don’t use much.)
Last year, thanks to Chris Porter (Mr Mojo), I discovered the Maxxis Aggressor DD, dual compound 2.5WT and that’s my favourite [non Winter] rear now, pedals lovely – fast, does everything well).
Seems to me the rear tyre is very very influential on how pedalling effort feels , MUCH less so the front.
I run a DH casing wire bead Bontrager G5 2.3 x 29 upfront a lot and the grip is just superb (better than a DHR2 I reckon) as it already has Kevins desired clear side channel.
see https://blisterreview.com/gear-reviews/bontrager-g5
In the woods where there is always soft ground and often roots I sometimes use a Magic Mary 29″ snakeskin 2.35, ‘orange’ compound (soft, not supersoft) upfront, I plan to add a cushscore to that, more grip, better rolling, aids suspension! I am not as keen on the Mary on trail centre hardback though.
Hope you’re enjoying your riding, I like it more every year and I started in 86. I’m riding g a Geometron G1, that’s a big part of the story.
What are you thoughts on the Onza Aquila which Aaron Gwin designed? It’s similar to this one, but he specifically moved the side knobs to be more in line with the center ones.