Petzl Attache Carabiner
Weight: 56 grams
Locking system: Screw-Lock
Major axis strength: 22 kn
Minor axis strength: 7 kn
Open gate strength: 6 kn
Gate opening: 24 mm
Test Locations: Castle Valley, Indian Creek, & Big Cottonwood Canyon, UT; High Sierra, CA
Days Tested: 30
The new Petzl Attache is a distillation of two previous carabiners, the standard Attache and the lightweight Attache 3D, into a single product. The new Attache is essentially a redesign of the older Attache 3D, while the original Attache has been discontinued.
Since the design is significantly stripped down and lighter than the old Attache, the new carabiner has both advantages and disadvantages over the old model.
Size, Shape, and Weight
The Attache is still a fairly small, pear-shaped carabiner. While not the smallest locking carabiner on the market, it is certainly smaller than the Black Diamond Rocklock, Petzl William, or Wild Country Synergy lockers (to name a few), all larger pear-shaped carabiners.
The pear shape is important because you can use the Attache to belay using a münter hitch, something that is next to impossible on a small D-shaped locker.
And while small, the Attache is also big enough to easily accept a clove hitch when used on an anchor.
As stated above, the Attache works well as a belay ‘biner, since its pear shape allows for use of a münter hitch if you drop a belay device off a multi-pitch climb, or forget your belay device back at the car.
I used an old Attache for years as my belay biner, and I never took it off my belay device. The Attache also works with an assisted belay device such as the Grigri or Cinch, and is a nice alternative to a dedicated biner like the Black Diamond Gridlock, since it is more versatile.
The Attache is a forged carabiner with an “H” cross-section, similar to the I-beam construction found on many other lightweight carabiners. This is a departure from the old Attache, which was made from straight round-stock aluminum. The “H” cross-section reduces weight with no loss in strength or rope-bearing surface area.
In my experience however, the “H” design also reduces the durability of the carabiner.
I have old round-stock carabiners that show as much wear after several years of use as the new Attache does after only a month of use. The anodization wore away quickly on the Attache as it does on any other carabiner, but more importantly, the aluminum itself showed wear that is consistent with years of use on a round-stock carabiner. The most significant wear was noticeable after using the Attache as a top-rope anchor, not as a belay biner, something that I’m not surprised by since repeated lowering off a carabiner is the fastest way to wear it down.
In my personal experience, Petzl screwgates resist getting clogged with grit better than other companies’ carabiners. The Attache is consistent with that trend; the action on the screwgate is still smooth after a month in the desert.
I have climbing partners, however, who swear the exact opposite—that their Petzl lockers do not last as long as other carabiners—so your experience may differ from mine.
The redesigned Petzl Attache is a nice addition to the Petzl line, but is not suited to every use. For top-rope anchors, or for casual cragging, larger round-stock carabiners are a better choice as they are more durable. But for multi-pitch climbing where space and weight are more important, the Attache is a good choice.