So…which system?
After riding enough rowdy, bike-rattling terrain on both systems, the clutch system is unassailable, regardless of brand. But without a doubt, Shimano has put together a complete package that has enough little things that put them ahead. The ability to turn off the clutch just covers more ground from a design standpoint. You can ride with the system off and save your sweaty, low-blood-sugar, quivering self the trouble of downshifting with more resistance, and work on your bike with no more weirdness than 9-speed derailleurs ever presented.
SRAM’s barrier pin has its perks in that your can freeze your derailleur in a position that completely slackens your chain, but you’ll also find yourself knocking it loose when you accidently pull on the cage and the derailleur snaps back into its “active” position.
The biggest difference by far, however, isn’t found in the derailleurs themselves, but in the shifters that accompany them.
I’m one of the old gripshift holdouts, especially on big-travel bikes, because the ability to dump lots of gears quickly in either direction is something I’ve always valued. Both Shimano and SRAM have triggers as their more dominantly selling setups, but the Shimano XT shifters allow you to upshift two gears gears at a time. SRAM? Only one. And this is huge. Not just because two is more than one but because two thumb swings gives you four gears, not two. It’s all exponential ‘n’ shit. Both systems easily give a comparable number of downshifts with the thumb paddle, but getting four or more gears quickly out of the Shimano system really makes a difference.
Multiple upshifts is something Shimano did a while ago, but when coupled with a clutch setup, the entire package is something SRAM just doesn’t have. Both trigger setups have evolved into an ergonomic layout that allows upshifts with either your thumb or your index finger, but since SRAM’s stops at one gear, every gear you want must correspond with winding your wrist back up. After riding the Shimano system for a few days, I actually get annoyed going back to the bike with the SRAM setup. It’s annoying enough that I stuck a gripshifter on there to get the multiple gear-shifting ability.
So while gripshifters aren’t a naughty word in my house, I know that the rest of the bike world as a whole won’t be seen in public with them. So be aware: if you want to dump or pile on gears quickly on a SRAM setup, you’re going to have to have your bike look as uncool as mine. And in the future, I’ll be buying more Shimano stuff myself.
Agreed, Since using Shimano’s new Shadow XT Plus RD I’ve been floored by the difference. I too am back buying Shimano components after a enjoyable past few years on SRAM.
Any readers got an opinion on the Zee Shadow Plus (clutch) rear mech? It’s the cheaper version of the Saint, short cage but can accommodate an 11-36 cassette which I’m considering for my 1×10 AM bike. Or would it be better to stay with an SLX if looking for an affordable clutch derailleur?
A friend just got the Zee rear derailleur for the same setup (160 travel bike setup 1×10). He’s had it for a few rides now and seems to like it. I pedaled around the parking lot and it felt pretty good. I’m considering getting the Zee setup for my SX Trail.
Lorne,
I have one and I like it. It’s on an 11-36 Shimano cassette, w a 32 ring up front on my trail bike. I have it with the Saint shifter, which is sooooo slick. it’s the best part of the system, hands down.
I must be missing something here… I run 1×10 with a medium cage XT dérailleur and don’t get any chain noise or chain slap against my frame (I’ve had people try my bike and remark on how silent the drivechain runs). There’s no chain guide, just a cheap BBG bashwhich and an correctly-sized chain for my chainring/cassette combo.
Is clutch designed for double or triple chainrings where it’s possible to get loads of loose chain when running in the smaller chainring? It just doesn’t seem relevant to my 1×10 setup.
If you’re not getting a bunch of chainslap and you can keep your chain on without a guide, then I don’t see a reason to bother with buying a clutch setup. That’s a unique combination you have though, it’s certainly not the norm (hence the remarks from your buddies). As far as single vs. multiple ring setups, I’ve run them on 1×10 setups and 2×10 setups and both benefitted greatly from the new derailleurs, trail bikes and dh bikes alike.
In response to Zack’s comment. Not all bikes running these various system suffer from the same issues. Factors such as chain length, B-Tension screw setting and frame design play a role. Example: FSR type and Giant Reign type frames make a hell of a racket. Whereas Trek Remedy is relatively quiet. Chains that come on the bike are often too long IMO. They are the spec’d length but essentially they allow for poor shifting technique (basically cross shifting) without risk of damaging the drivetrain or frame when the suspension compresses. Shift big ring to big cog and lean on the saddle while looking at the rear derailer and you’ll see what I mean. I like short chains, sometimes we swap for a longer B-Tension screw and use it to over crank the spring tension. Keeps stuff pretty quite. =)
Great review! Thanks.
So why even bother ever taking the clutch off? Why not just design the derailleur to provide the clutch function set to on all the time? By reading some reviews and feedback commwents it obviously work well, but i dont get what the benefit will be switching it off.
There’s more resistence on downshifts, enough that it’s noticeable. Not a big deal but it is more effort and on those death grind kinds of rides where you get back to your car with the stars twinkling and two hours out of water sometimes you just need life to be easy.
But mostly it just makes it easier to take the wheel off.
Hello,
The new X9 (with ball bearing start from 2012) car upshift up to 3 gears at once…