Skiing 101: Getting Started

 

Race Skis

Race skis are the GT sport bikes of the ski world. They’re made to rail stable, high-angle turns at high speeds. If carving up groomers is what you’re in to, then a good race ski can be a dream. Sidecut and subsequent turning radius plays heavily into what racing discipline a given race ski is intended for (e.g., slalom, giant slalom, super-G, or downhill).

A slalom ski has a short turning radius and dramatic sidecut, while a downhill ski has less sidecut and is built for high speed stability. Race skis can be tricky in moguls due to a typically stiff flex and sharp edges. Often set with heavy race-binding mount plates and a traditional camber profile, a race ski isn’t the first thing you want to be clicking into on a powder day.

Skiing 101: Getting Started, BLISTER
Atomic’s high performance slalom ski, the D2 Race SL, which sports a short, 12m turn radius

 

Big-Mountain/Comp Skis

If race skis are the sport bikes of the ski world, the big mountain or “comp” (competition) skis are the dragsters. Manufacturers usually sell their dedicated comp skis in one length only: long. Typically over 190cm, the classic comp ski profile consists of a very stiff flat tail, a touch of traditional camber under foot, and a slight amount of tip rocker. Made to win big-mountain competitions, a true big-mountain ski likes to go straight, fast, and stomp big airs. If you’re in the market for a ski like this, you’re either a pro or a very strong and accomplished skier.

Skiing 101: Getting Started, BLISTER
Cody Townsend and Kaj Zackrosson’s big mountain creation: The 194cm El Dictator

There you have it, a general description of each major ski type. Things get a little more complicated when we bring “fun/hybrid” ski shapes into the picture, but that will be left for a 200-level article.

 

BINDINGS

We’ll keep this brief, as the fine points of bindings become more important as your skill level and aggressiveness increase as skier. We’ll start with a binding’s “DIN setting.” A binding’s DIN # corresponds to a number representing the “tightness” or retention value of the binding when engaged. Thcorrect DIN for your bindings is calculated based on your height, weight, boot sole length, and skiing ability. Only a qualified shop tech can accurately determine your correct DIN setting.

DIN ranges for bindings vary based on the ability level of the skier they’re intended for. Beginner-level bindings typically have a DIN range from 2 to 6, while advanced and expert bindings may have a DIN range from 8 to 18 (some race stock bindings run DIN values well above 20). A higher DIN value does not equate to a safer or higher quality binding.

In upcoming 200-level articles, we’ll delve into a deeper technical analysis of binding engineering, specialized binding types, and a more detailed list of factors that play into choosing the binding that’s right for you.

 

POLES

You’re looking into owning your own skis and boots, so clearly you’re past riding pole-less. At this point, a $5 set of retired rental poles from the fall swap will do just fine. But believe it or not, there are reasons an experienced person might spend $100 on a pair of sticks with grips on them. Here’s a quick explanation of the different types poles on the market.

Aluminum

The majority of poles out there are made from aluminum (from the ones you’ll find in the rental shop to high end race poles). Generally speaking, the price point of a set of aluminum poles is determined by their weight and the quality of metal used. A less expensive pole will be made from a cheaper, heavier, and a less durable grade of aluminum (not major points of concern for your average skier). Experienced big-mountain and park riders are willing to pay for strength and durability in a pole (while adding some weight), as they are more likely to break one during a rough crash. Racers prefer very light, contoured poles made specially with aerodynamics in mind.

Skiing 101: Getting Started, BLISTER
Leki Super G/DH race pole

Composite: Graphite and Carbon Poles

Composite poles are typically more expensive than aluminum ones due to the nature of the material. A graphite or carbon pole is much lighter than your average aluminum pole but doesn’t sacrifice nearly as much durability in shedding weight. Composite poles are more flexible and may not bend irreparably like aluminum ones during a hard fall.

Adjustable/Backcountry Poles

Made using either aluminum or composite materials (sometimes both), adjustable poles keep with going uphill in mind. Skinning through deep snow is made easier by extra wide baskets and an extendable shaft. Snowboarders often use adjustable poles in the backcountry as they snowshoe or skin up on splitboard. When it’s time for the descent, adjustable poles can be shortened up and stowed easily in a pack. As an obvious plus, you can change up a backcountry pole’s length to suit multiple users.

Skiing 101: Getting Started, BLISTER
The adjustable Razor Carbon pole from Black Diamond (featuring an aluminum upper shaft and carbon lower)

This breakdown of pole types might be a little dense for a 101-level discussion, but when the time comes to upgrade in the future, now you know what to shop for.

The Wrap-up:

With a general idea of what you’re looking for in a ski, if you have the opportunity to demo several pair, take it. You’ll become familiar with how certain designs feel and what appeals to you the most. Being clear about your ability levels and where your riding interests lie can save you a lot of time, and possibly some cash.

“The guy at the shop said I would like these skis, and yeah, I guess they’re pretty good.” Don’t be that buyer. You’re now set to begin an informed conversation with a salesperson about how your money is spent on a new pair of skis and boots.

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