Winter Outerwear & Apparel: Reviewers’ Choices (17/18)

Dave Alie

Background

6’3”, 185 lbs. I wear a size Medium in some base layers and pants, and a large in everything else. (see Bio)

I live in Colorado which enables me to be on rock for most of the year, but I do enjoy getting on ice a handful of times every season. I typically do a few days at a “crag” (read: moderate approach) such as the flows outside Ouray, Telluride, or Vail, and a few days in Rocky Mountain National Park. For the most part, I bring the same gear to each venue with the exception of a heavier-than-necessary jacket for short approaches (I don’t mind the heft for extra abrasion resistance if the approach is short). The big deciding factor at the start of each day is the forecast: how much warmth do I need from my base / mid layers.

ICE CLIMBING — Colorado

Base Layers

• Top: Arc’Teryx Phase SL Crew LS

This top is basically as lightweight as I can get, which fits well into a layering system. I like merino as a fabric for midweight base layers, but for the ultralight stuff I like the faster wicking performance of a synthetic. This piece highlights the reason my base layers tend to skew towards Arc’Teryx: they have a very trim cut but still run long in the torso and arms.

• Top for Really Cold Days: Icebreaker Tech Top Long Sleeve Half Zip

It’s hard to imagine finding more comfortable natural fiber than this. I love the longer sleeves and the zip-up collar. This is about as warm as I like to go for base layer, which is really the only part of my gear for a given day that isn’t modular.

• Bottom: Arc’teryx Phase AR

These are great for their simplicity and longer length. I’ve got a 33” inseam and these fit great. They’re super comfortable, don’t ride up over the course of the day, and don’t sag like some really lightweight merino layers can. They’re feather light, and don’t give you all that much warmth. I can get away with this underneath softshell overalls in reasonably warm conditions, provided it’s not crazy windy. I tend to run hot, especially when trudging uphill, so I take these unless the temps or wind are particularly unfriendly.

For really cold days, I used to have a pair of midweight merino leggings, but I’m currently looking for a replacement, with my eyes on Icebreaker’s Tech Leggings and Arc’teryx’s Rho AR.

Mid Layer: Patagonia R1 Hoody

I’m not sure what more there is to say about this layer for use in the backcountry (you can check out several of our other reviewers’ sections for more). Much like the base layers above, I love the slim cut and the fact that the sleeves and torso are long enough, the latter being especially important so as not to sit uncomfortably beneath a harness.

Shell Jacket For Short Approaches: Triple Aught Design Stealth Hoodie LT

This is an interesting outerwear piece in that it’s more geared towards the hunting community than climbing. The giveaway is a wholesale disregard for minimizing weight: there are tons of pockets, pit zips, laminated seams, and reinforced elbows. The fabric, however, is a familiar 3-layer Schoeller waterproof-breathable that does phenomenally well at keeping you dry. This fabric is why this jacket is my short-approach shell: it’s so over-engineered that you’d never want to bother carrying it 5 miles in, but if you’re only going to be hiking for 30 minutes, it’s nice to have a bomb-proof shell that not only stays dry, but is just about the most durable thing I’ve ever used.

Shell Jacket for Long Approaches: Arc’teryx Theta AR

I’ve been using an older version of the Arc’Teryx Theta AR. I liked the packability and longer length, but when it’s time to replace it, I’ll probably try to find something with a little more breathability and go for a softshell, with a priority on how the shell fits my shoulders.

Shell Pants: Arc’teryx Pants (unidentified)

Any identifying marks on these soft shell pants have long since been lost to time and wear, but they’re closest living relative is the Procline FL (pictured above — mine don’t have side zippers near the thigh or cuff). They’re durable, breathe great, and have good water and weather protection. I wish they had a strap for underneath a boot, much like gaiters have; they’re only real weakness is that snow can get in around the ankles and I really prefer not to bring external gaiters if it can be avoided.

Gloves: Hestra Ergo Grip OutDry Dexterity Long

These are great gloves for all-around use. I climb with liners if it’s totally arctic, but generally try to pocket the liners and put them on once I get to the belay. If you generally climb ice in warmer or friendlier conditions, you might want something even thinner so you waste less grip strength, but I think the longer (with cuffs) versions are great at keeping running water from finding the opening in your sleeve.

Socks: Random
My feet don’t get cold all that easily, so I’m somewhat agnostic on sock choice. The last time I climbed ice was on All Mixed Up in Rocky Mountain. In a rush to get out the door, I wore a pair of argyle business socks from Target. They worked fine, but I don’t think I’d recommend them. My advice for ice climbing is generally to go for comfort and round up in terms of warmth. Having crampons in snow and ice makes for a very efficient thermal sink.

 

NEXT: Matt Zia’s Outerwear and Apparel Selections