Matt Pincus of TrainingBeta (Ep.16)

Matt Pincus is a climber’s climber, deeply committed to the sport and the community. He’s also the content manager and head coach / trainer at TrainingBeta, and a Blister alumn. Suffice it to say, when it comes to improving your climbing, the guy knows his stuff. Since the days back when he and I used to trade notes while reviewing gear, he has taken his life on the road, climbing as much as possible and sharing his wisdom and experience with others through coaching sessions and writing. We caught up recently to talk about what he’s learned along the way, how it’s shaped his climbing, and what his perspective is on the trendiness of “training.”

Matt Pincus of TrainingBeta on Blister's All Things Climbing Podcast
Matt Pincus


  • Intro (0:00)
  • Bivouac Coffee (1:50)
  • How Matt transitioned to being a full-time climber (3:00)
  • How do you stay psyched to train? (6:50)
  • What’s your motivation for climbing hard? (12:20)
  • Has the trend in training over-emphasized hang boarding and under-emphasized technique? (15:45)
  • What’s Matt’s own training approach? (24:00)
  • What’s fun about coaching other people? (29:10)
  • Bouldering as movement distilled (36:00)
  • Importance of skin maintenance (41:50)
  • Quality training instead of over-training (45:30)
  • How would you summarize your ideas about training? (48:01)
  • What the biggest change happening in climbing? (57:00)
  • Outro (59:50)


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On top of all that, Rhino Skin Founder Justin Brown sits on the board of the Smith Rock Group, which helps plan and fund-raise for various maintenance projects at Smith Rock State Park. We’re donating all our proceeds from the show, after production costs, to the American Safe Climbing Associate and the Access Fund. Rhino Skin is fully behind this effort and has offered to knock 10% off your order and kick an additional 10% over to the Access Fund when you use the promo code “Blister” at checkout. Head over to Rhino Skin Solutions to check out their offerings.

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1 comment on “Matt Pincus of TrainingBeta (Ep.16)”

  1. Great content guys! Well done! Keep up the good work !
    By the way, I heard you say about 90 times “you know”, and then Matt picked it up and it was a “you know” battle, quite a filler you got here :-)

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