Before we get into their specific models and build options, here are some things to keep in mind when deciding on which build level to go with, and why. You can find more detailed thoughts about this (and many other things to consider when buying a bike) in our Mountain Bike Buyer’s Guide.

First, when looking at complete bikes, suspension and wheels are going to make the biggest difference in how a bike really rides. Spend money on those before other things like higher-end drivetrain parts, cockpit parts (e.g., stem, handlebars, etc.), cranks, etc.

Tires make an enormous difference in performance, but are cheaper and easier to upgrade, especially since they tend to wear down quicker than other components. Upgrading a lower-end front tire to something better — and saving the original for rear-tire use — can be a good way to improve a bike while still making use of the originals, since front tires are generally a lot more important than rear tires when it comes to traction.

Drivetrain parts can be upgraded piecemeal as they wear out, or if you just want to upgrade down the line. Higher-end cassettes are mostly just lighter, while higher-end shifters and derailleurs get lighter, smoother, and sometimes last a bit longer as you go up in price.

We’ll outline here the different models in Rocky Mountain’s MTB lineup, organized from most cross-country-oriented (XC) to downhill-oriented (DH). In other words, the bikes at the top of the list are optimized to pedal and climb uphill very well, while the bikes at the bottom are optimized to handle very rough, steep, and challenging descents very well.

We’ve included some notable information for each model:

Available build kits & their MSRP

• Best Budget Build: These are the build kits that we think make the most sense for people trying to spend the least amount without ending up with a build that’s going to immediately break or need to be upgraded.
• Most Performance for the Price: These are the build kits that we think make the most sense for people seeking the best balance of performance and cost. I.e., if you don’t need to get the cheapest bike, but you also don’t need the absolute lightest bike or all the newest bling, this is the build we think makes sense for you.

• Suspension travel (e.g., 100 mm of travel, 130 mm of travel, etc.)
• Wheel size (e.g., 27.5”, 27.5+, 29”)
• Frame material options (e.g., alloy vs. carbon)
• Sizes available and height range accommodated for by those sizes
• A brief description of what the bike was designed for and any notable design details.
• Some of the bike’s most direct competitors from other brands
• Which Rocky Mountain bike it’s most similar to
• Reasons why you should buy it
• Reasons why you should not buy it